Best known for its upscale homes, celebrity residents and lush green spaces, there’s more to this West London neighbourhood than meets the eye.
Holland Park Avenue (Photo: Adrian Scottow via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
Despite its illustrious denizens, Holland Park is something of a hidden gem among those from outside the capital. Sandwiched between the districts of Shepherd’s Bush and Kensington, most of the area is taken up by the eponymous park that is spread across some 54 acres. Along leafy Holland Park Avenue, from which the neighbourhood springs out, you’ll find Holland Park tube station, providing easy access to the rest of the city, as well as being where most of the district’s restaurants and bars are clustered.
One aspect of the area that unassuming visitors are often unaware of is that Holland Park Avenue, among London’s most ancient thoroughfares, was once notorious for highway robberies. But where nefarious types once stalked, long gone is the open country and badly lit highway, and now boutique shops and cafes line the same street. And we can all be grateful for that.
The Arab Room at Leighton House (Photo: Maggie Jones via Flickr / CC BY 2.0
In the mid-1800s, Holland Park was best known for its academic art scene. You can step back into this period at the Leighton House Museum (12 Holland Park Road), the elaborate former studio and home of 19th-century painter and sculptor Sir Frederic Leighton. A former President of the Royal Academy, Leighton decorated the Grade II-listed house with a huge array of academic paintings and other prestigious souvenirs that he picked up from his travels across the globe.
A stone’s throw from the museum lies another building key to Holland Park’s creative heritage: The Design Museum (224-238 Kensington High Street.). Founded by Sir Terence Conran, the museum has grown to become one of the world’s leading centres for contemporary art. With previous exhibitions centred around Ai Weiwei, Stanley Kubrick and Kenneth Grange, it even won European Museum of the Year in 2018. What’s more, admission is free.
The Design Museum (Photo: Aurelien Guichard via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
The stunning green space the museum backs onto is Holland Park. One of London’s more recently-established public parks, the local council only acquired the 56-acre land after Holland House suffered bomb damage during the Second World War. Within the park now lies the Holland Park Theatre (Ilchester Place) a café, sports pitches, two picture-postcard Japanese gardens (the Kyoto Garden and Fukushima Memorial Garden) and a renowned Italian restaurant.
The remains of Holland House (Photo: Simon London Less Travelled via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
While in the area, it’s worth checking out Ilchester Place, often billed as London’s most expensive street. Also warranting a peek is the historic 150-year-old Holland Park Mews and the Grade II* listed terraces of Royal Crescent.
Eat and drink
Holland Park isn’t awash with pubs and restaurants, but of those dotted around the neighbourhood, the standard is high. Sophisticated yet laid-back, The Castle (100 Holland Park Avenue) is perfect for people-watching. At standard London gastropub prices, dining here can be expensive, but their Beer-Battered Fresh Atlantic Haddock & Chips is arguably worth every penny – especially when washed down with one of the venue’s daily craft beer rotations.
If you want to feel like a local, look no further than an afternoon at Cibo (3 Russell Gardens). During summer, they serve late afternoon aperitivi on their terrace. We’ll have their house Negroni, thank you. The decor may look dated, but they strive to keep things simple here. Their homemade gnocchi is delicious, as is their grilled baby squid. Furthermore, their Italian wine list is one of the finest in the city.
If you have a generous budget, Belvedere (Abbotsbury Road) is the place to head. Beautifully set in the gardens of Holland Park, the Tuscan-styled restaurant delivers a wonderful dining experience. Their Truffle Pizza is an indulgent treat, as is their Whole Lobster Linguine for two. If you’ve space, follow your main with a dolci – their Blueberry & Almond Tart with homemade ice cream is delicious – serving up the perfect conclusion to a memorable meal.
Belvedere restaurant (Photo: sergeymk via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
Where to stay
Affordable luxury is what’s on offer at Safestay Kensington Holland Park (Holland Park Avenue). An elegant hostel housed in a former castle, the building is located in the centre of the park itself. Guests can choose from a mixed dorm or a private room, and female-only dorms are also available. Bookend your sleep with a game of billiards, a drink in the garden or a bite to eat in the on-site cafe.
With most of the area’s well-regarded hotels located in neighbouring Notting Hill or Kensington, St James House Serviced Apartments (173 Holland Park Avenue) is your best bet in Holland Park itself . Here, you can book a room in the stylish, open-plan apartment complex at reasonable prices.