For many travellers, Colombo is the gateway to Sri Lanka, but for those who stick around long enough to need somewhere to stay, there are a wealth of neighbourhoods to pick from, each with their own distinct character.
A Colombo street scene complete with traditional tuk-tuks (Photo: Florent Mechain courtesy of Travelmag.com via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
Situated on the west coast of the charmingly dubbed ‘Teardrop Island’ in South Asia, the Sri Lankan capital has emerged from an often tumultuous past to become far more than a mere jumping off point for exploring this fascinating country. Whether its sun-kissed beaches, ancient temples, palatial hotels or a vibrant street food and café culture that you’re after, the city is now a worthy destination in its own right.
Indeed, it might even be fair to say that no Sri Lanka itinerary is complete without spending at least some time in Colombo. Once known ‘the garden city of the East’, the sprawling metropolis of today has taken on many of the trappings of modernisation, while retaining much of its scenic appeal. Set against a backdrop of lush green mountains, a constant hubbub of tuk-tuks transporting locals and tourists across the city creates an almost melodic rhythm to daily life.
In recent years, as Colombo – much like the rest of the country has dusted itself off – from the ravages of ethnic war and economic travails, the cosmopolitanism that has intermittently characterised the city throughout its modern history has once again come to the fore. But at the same time, Colombo remains a place with a firm eye on the past, lest it be forgotten. For visitors, it adds up to an intoxicating mix – one that enchants all who come here.
Neighbourhoods
When looking for the best place to stay in Colombo, visitors have a choice of everything from no-frills guest houses to private apartments to boutique properties to the most opulent of luxury hotels. Whatever your reason for visiting this culturally diverse city, the following three neighbourhoods offer something distinctly different. Each would be a worthy base for your time in Colombo, providing a unique taste of an endlessly interesting place that’s both steeped in history and brimming with forward-looking vitality.
Best for expats: Cinnamon Gardens
A Buddha statue in Cinnamon Gardens (Photo: Sissssou2 via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
Perhaps no Colombo neighbourhood exemplifies the dramatic changes that the city has seen down the years more than Cinnamon Gardens. Once dominated by eponymous cinnamon trees, by the late 20th-century the district had grown into the epitome of well-heeled suburbia, with large houses and even larger gardens attracting a steady stream of young, well-to-do families. This trend continued with further regeneration leading to the bustling neighbourhood we see today, dotted with boutique hotels and cafes, along with several embassies and official buildings such as the neoclassical Town Hall and the Independence Memorial Hall, guarded by eye-catching stone lions.
This combination of residential charm and municipal grandeur, all within three kilometres of Colombo’s urban centre, have helped make Cinnamon Gardens a popular base for non-natives laying down roots in the city. Amenities are aplenty, too. The ultra-chic Odel departmental store can be found here, while a choice of several international schools in the area adds to the appeal for families. For recreation, sports fans can catch the action at any of the renowned cricket and rugby grounds located in the neighbourhood.
Find hotels in Cinnmon Gardens via Booking.com
Best for nightlife: Slave Island
A view over Beira Lake in Slave Island (Photo: Wikipedia)
Don’t be fooled by the tranquility of Beira Lake, a picture-postcard body of water surrounding Slave Island. Because while leisurely lakeside strolls might be the main attraction by day, come nightfall this neighbourhood bursts into life. In short, Slave Island has become Colombo’s most up-and-coming party districts – and it’s a reputation that has been embraced by locals and visitors alike. Named after a tongue of land in the centre of the lake where Dutch colonialists are said to have kept their slaves, Slave Island is today a perpetual buzz of nocturnal activity, centred around one pedestrianised street called Park Street. Lined with restaurants, cafes and nightclubs, the street throngs with revellers keen to experience a quintessential Colombo night on the tiles.
In short, for those keen to be at the heart of the action, there can be few better places to stay in Colombo than Slave Island. But equally, there is more to the district than hedonistic entertainment. Together with the scenic lake just a few blocks away, the green expanse of Viharamahadevi Park, on the fringes, of Cinnamon Gardens provides respite and recuperation after your energy-consuming activities of the night before. This is also a corner of the city rich in multi-cultural heritage, with the famous Gangaramaya Temple among its most notable landmarks, drawing huge numbers of worshippers and tourists throughout the year.
Find hotels in Slave Island via Booking.com
Best for beaches: Galle Face
A beachfront in Galle Face (Photo: hiroo yamagata via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
In a city whose pulsating energy can sometimes overwhelm, the beach can provide the perfect antidote. Those who like the idea of staying a stone’s throw from one of Colombo’s stretches of golden sand would do well to consider Galle Face. Overlooking the city’s Western shoreline, the neighbourhood has always benefited from its oceanfront setting, but in recent times it has seen significant development that has transformed it into a desirable base for visitors, rather than merely somewhere to head for a day out.
Central to the area’s appeal is Galle Face Green, a 12-acre ocean-side urban park which stretches for 500 metres along the coast. The long promenade attracts early morning joggers, while playful kids run wild in the park as the grown-ups kick back and soak up the scenery. As for the local beaches, you have your pick here, with Unawatuna, Thalpe and Wijiya Beaches all offering an enticing combination of soft sand, crystalline waters and plenty of facilities including beachside eateries souvenir shops and hotels.