When it comes to pocket-sized cities, Ljubljana is up there with the very best. And small but perfectly formed though it may be, the Slovenian capital also boasts a number of distinct outer neighbourhoods, each with its own character and charm.
(Photo: Pedro Szekely via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
Situated slap bang in the middle of the country, Ljubljana emerged from the Cold War era to become one of Central and Eastern Europe’s most burgeoning capital cities. A renowned university and its attendant student population bring with them a youthful energy which has fed into a fast-growing start-up sector, particularly in the field of technology. Lay-out wise, the city is intersected by the scenic contours of the Ljubljanica River flanked by waterside cafes, while its compact central districts are dotted with shops, boutiques, restaurants and museums.
Long since departed from its status as part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, the city has marched positively into the post-Communist era and is now a popular European mini-break destination. Indeed, given the country’s relatively small size, it would be somewhat remiss to visit Slovenia without spending at least some time in the capital. And for those planning an extended stay, be it of a few weeks, months or even longer, Ljubljana is home to several districts that would be make for an ideal base.
Neighbourhoods
When looking for the best place to stay in Ljubljana, visitors have a choice of everything from budget guest houses and private apartments to mid-range and luxury hotels. Whatever your reason for visiting this small, picturesque city, the three neighbourhoods we’ve identified below offer something unique. Each would help make your time in Ljubljana special, giving you a sense of what life is like as a local in one of Europe’s most enchanting cities.
Best for tourists: The Old Town
Set in the city’s medieval heart, overlooked by the imposing 12th-century Ljubljana Castle, the Old Town district is a magnet with tourists. Not least because many of the city’s main landmarks and attractions can be found here, including the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, the Town Hall, the Triple Bridge, Robba Fountain and the majestic castle itself, while historic cobbled streets lined with restaurants, bars, boutiques and gift shops add a contemporary flavour to the neighbourhood.
(Photo: Andrew Milligan sumo via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
The Old Town also encompasses an attractive section of the Ljubljanica River, where visitors can enjoy evening waterside strolls – that is if they’ve finished exploring the area’s narrow alleyways and tucked away courtyards that give a sense of stepping back in time. Visitors also have the chance to take in the sights, sounds and aromas of a local bazaar, with a large open-air market taking place here every day of the week.
Find hotels in the old town via Booking.com
Best for students: Trnovo
(Photo: Eirik Newth via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
Situated just south of the city centre, and about 25 minutes by tram from Ljubljana University, the district of Trnovo has long been a popular haunt with students thanks to its buzzing cultural and entertainment scenes and reliable transport links offering easy access to the rest of the city. A smattering of green public spaces also helps make the area a thriving gathering place for its youthful masses, while there are plenty of bars, restaurants and pubs for after-dark recreation.
Each year, Trnovo also hosts one of the most eagerly-awaited events on the city’s cultural calendar that draws revellers from far and wide. Held over a full month, Trnfest features a packed programme of top-class musical performances, immersive theatre shows and plenty more, all staged within the vast atrium of the neighbourhood’s KUD France Prešeren Gallery. Meanwhile, an acclaimed Chinese language school further cements the district’s standing as Ljubljana’s main student hub.
Best for ex-pats: Koseze
Koseze pond by night (Photo: semperidem 2007 via Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0)
Owning to its vibrant start-up scene, Ljubljana is home to a small ex-pat community and many of them prefer to base themselves a little away from the main tourist hubbub of the city. One of the most desirable residential neighbourhoods is Koseze, situated in the city’s northwestern reaches. Picturesque and pristinely maintained, the district’s focal point is the Koseze pond, a small artificial lake set within a former clay pit. Here there’s a walking trail, a children’s playground and regular activities including Tai Chi and summer yoga.
Indeed, surrounded by nature and outdoor recreation, Koseze is a haven for young families who are based in Ljubljana for any length of time. A brisk 15-minute bike ride from the centre, it is easy for commuters to reach their place of work, while a choice of international and local schools are also nearby. For greater exertion than a relaxing circuit of the pond, residents can also enjoy morning hikes to the nearby Roznik Hill.
Find hotels in Koseze via Booking.com
Best for nightlife: City Centre
Locals sit on bean bags outside a bar in the city centre (Photo: Mirci via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
Ljubljana’s main business district, the city centre is also its beating heart when it comes to nocturnal entertainment. Awash with restaurants and watering holes, the area attracts night owls and party animals in their droves who flock here to let their hair down, paint the town red, and plenty of other apt metaphors and cliches, no doubt, too. Nestled along the Ljubljanica River, there is also plenty of opportunity to refresh after your night-time antics with a reinvigorating walk along the breezy riverbank.
But even more than office life and wild nights, the city centre also has plenty of things to see and do during daylight hours. Among them are a liberal sprinkling of tourist attractions, as well as no end of opportunities for a spot of retail therapy, whether it be small independent boutiques or international fashion brands. Several renowned museums and galleries can also be found in the vicinity of the city centre.
Find hotels in the city center via Booking.com
Best for art and culture: Metelkova
A building covered in art work in Metelkova (Photo: Eoghan OLionnain via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
A tumultuous modern history often gives rise to a thriving counter-cultural movement and in Ljubljana such an alternative scene can be found in Metelkova. Positioned just north of the city centre, the neighbourhood is a mecca for artists, activists and other creative types. The origins of the district’s penchant for the subversive date back to the early 1990s, following the fall of Communism, when a former army barracks was squatted in by about 200 underground artists and intellectuals. The effects of that occupation can today be seen in the street art, sculptures and graffiti that decorate sizeable sections of the neighbourhood.
For culture vultures and indeed anyone seeking a safe haven for ideas and expression of any form, Metelkova is quite simply the place to be. Inevitably, it also attracts a steady stream of somewhat prurient visitors keen to get a taste of the unique atmosphere and creative energies that run through the district. But there is no doubt that it is the residents and their inimitable spirt who are the driving forces behind one of Ljubljana’s most unique neighbourhoods.