Small towns and villages with defined historic centres are known in Italian as ‘borghi’, which typically preserve much of the form they assumed during the late Middle Ages. Umbria is one of the best regions to explore these capsules of history, art and architecture while embracing their slow pace of life.
The town of Orvieto famously sits on a tuff rock cliff (Photo: courtesy of Comune di Orvieto)
Known as the ‘green heart of Italy’, Umbria is a land of rolling hills and verdant valleys. A distinctive spiritual atmosphere fills its lush landscapes and urban settlements, evoking the passage of prominent religious figures such as St. Francis and St. Clare. Often sitting atop a hill or sloped among olive trees, charming villages and small towns dot the scenery. It’s the perfect playground for hopping from one borgo to another, in search of enchanting Medieval architecture, traces of Ancient Rome, rich Renaissance art and enduring local traditions. Here are our favourite small towns and villages in Umbria suitable for either a day trip or a longer stay, including popular and lesser-known destinations.
Assisi
Renowned as the birthplace of St. Francis, Assisi has been a destination for pilgrims for nearly 800 years. It sits atop the slopes of Mount Subasio, whose pink-hued stone lends a warm tone to the town’s serene and peaceful atmosphere. The impressive Basilica was built only two years after Francis’ death, and over time it became the workshop of seminal Italian artists such as Giotto and Cimabue. Honey-coloured buildings add to the charm of winding streets and alleyways. In the main square, two Medieval palaces sit next to Umbria’s best-preserved Roman site, the Temple of Minerva. St. Clare was also born in Assisi, and her Basilica offers sweeping views over the surrounding valleys. Other prominent sites include the Romanesque-style cathedral, the Rocca Maggiore bastion, and many Francis-related landmarks nearby the town.
Assisi at dusk (Photo: Roberto Ferrari via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
Montefalco
A top wine destination, Montefalco is famous for the local Sagrantino vineyards, an ancient variety of red grapes celebrated in mid-September (Enologica Montefalco Festival). This small town is known as the ‘balcony of Umbria’ thanks to its hilltop location. Spectacular views can be enjoyed from the town’s belvedere and vantage points, such as the old bell tower. Next to it is the 13th-century town hall, part of a well-preserved Medieval centre testifying to the town’s heyday as a trade hub and religious centre. Other attractions include the churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Francesco, the latter notable for the precious frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli.
Corciano
Guarded by an imposing tower, Porta Santa Maria makes a scenic entrance into the Medieval walls of Corciano. From here, the town develops gently uphill forming a circular layout, which visitors explore through well-kept paved streets and charming side alleys. Attractions such as a traditional peasant’s dwelling (Museo della Casa Contadina) and the archaeological museum (Antiquarium) showcase the local history, while notable art is displayed at the church of Santa Maria Assunta. Another Medieval tower dominates the scene on top of the hill. Outside the walls, a romantic footpath lined with almond trees provides dreamy views over the surrounding nature. Corciano is located within easy reach of the region’s capital Perugia, and the natural attractions nearby include the Trasimeno Lake.
The Torrione di Porta Santa Maria, Corciano (Photo: Massimiliano Marsili, courtesy of Infopoint Corciano)
Rasiglia
Water streams murmur through Rasiglia carrying the memories of a once-thriving textile hub. The spring emerging at the hamlet’s edge feeds a charming network of locks and narrow canals, keeping in motion a living ecomuseum carefully preserved by the local community. Mills, looms and old grindstones allow visitors to get hands-on with the traditional crafts. The ruins of the castle also evoke times gone by, while other springs can be discovered on hikes through the surrounding nature. Consider visiting off-season, as this tiny hamlet has recently experienced an extraordinary surge in tourists during the peak of summer. A weaving-themed festival is held every first weekend of June (Penelope a Rasiglia).
Orvieto
One of Italy’s most sumptuous cathedrals crowns the cliffside setting of Orvieto. The theatrical effect is enhanced by wide golden mosaics playing off intricate bas-reliefs on the Gothic-style facade, matched by stunning frescoes in the interiors. Such grandeur doesn’t overshadow the other churches and palazzi of the historic centre. One must-see attraction is the ingenious St. Patrick’s Well where two spiral staircases descend 60 metres underground, winding around the shaft as the light flooding in from above grows dimmer and dimmer. More underground sites allow visitors to further explore what’s hidden below the town, and two museums display fascinating artefacts from the Etruscan necropolis located outside the city walls. A renowned wine destination, Orvieto also hosts the headquarters of the Slow Cities movement.
The spectacular facade of Orvieto’s duomo (Photo: courtesy of Comune di Orvieto)
Trevi
Known as ‘Città dell’Olio’, Trevi intertwines its identity with the countless olive trees surrounding it. They cover the lower slopes of Mount Serano, where the town sits gracefully looking out to vast cultivated plains. The monthly farmers’ market showcases the locals’ commitment to the traditional produce. If olive trees have a dedicated museum (Museo della Civiltà dell’Ulivo), the native variety of black celery is also much cherished, and is celebrated every year in October as part of a month-long festival revolving around Trevi’s history and culture. Precious art is kept in the Medieval and Renaissance sites, while the Roman walls are tangible evidence of the town’s early days.
Trevi and its olive trees (Photo: Simone Cerquiglini, courtesy of Servizio Turistico Trevi)
Gubbio
A 50-km hiking trail links Assisi to Gubbio, following in the steps St. Francis took after leaving behind his wealthy upbringing. Among its treasures, this small town is home to the Tavole Iguvine, an exceptional series of pre-Roman bronze tablets displayed at Palazzo dei Consoli. The palace’s Gothic-style facade overlooks the main square, a terracotta-paved terrace around which Medieval streets develop up and down the slopes of Mount Ingino. Visit in May to witness a folkloric parade recorded since 1165, including the statues of three saints being rushed across town on a thrilling collective run (Festa dei Ceri, May 15). Once an imposing structure hosting 6000 spectators, the Roman Theatre still hosts plays and concerts during the summer.
Palazzo dei Consoli (left) overlooking the main square (Photo: courtesy of Comune di Gubbio)
Amelia
Located in the southern reaches of Umbria, this ancient settlement takes visitors off the region’s usual tourist routes. Its ‘polygonal’ city walls are an extraordinary example of dry-stone construction, built around 2500 years ago using irregular stones masterfully pieced together. The town’s main attractions are accessible with a joint museum ticket. The Renaissance Palazzo Petrignani boasts exquisite frescoes by local artists, while the bronze statue of Tiberius’ son is the most precious treasure at the Archaeological Museum. Also included in the ticket is the Roman cistern, an imposing underground structure sized to accommodate 4400 cubic meters of water. Other landmarks showcase the town’s long history, and the local olive presses invite visitors to experience the oil-making tradition.
Narni
This town in southern Umbria famously inspired the title for the fantasy saga ‘The Chronicles of Narnia‘. Author C. S. Lewis never visited, but he’d be pleased to see how the local attractions resemble his magical wardrobe in serving as portals to other worlds. The underground chambers and tunnels, for example, take visitors on an immersive journey through the town’s past, with highlights including the Roman aqueduct and the anguished graffiti left by a prisoner of the Inquisition. Also highly evocative is the yearly Medieval festival, a two-week celebration where parades, jousting and historical dining culminate in a captivating horse race (‘Corsa dell’Anello’, between late April and early May). An imposing fortress is part of the other attractions, all of which are covered by a visitor’s pass.
A wide view over Narni (Photo: courtesy of archeoares.it)
Castiglione del Lago
Castiglione del Lago takes its name from a lakeside fortress. While the irregular shape of this defensive structure will intrigue those keen on Medieval architecture, a walk along the ramparts comes with sweeping views over Lake Trasimeno. The adjoining Palazzo della Corgna is one of Umbria’s most striking sites and its only reggia (royal palace), whose former glory is safeguarded by splendid frescoes depicting battles and mythological scenes. Three gates pierce the city walls, and the old town within is home to historic sights and religious architecture. Water sports and lakeside leisure take hold of the shore during the summer.
The fortress of Castiglione backdropped by the Trasimeno Lake (Photo: courtesy of castiglionedellago.eu)
Spello
Roman and Medieval history blend into each other in Spello. The remarkably preserved city walls date back to the first century BCE, and other Roman traces include the amphitheatre, the city gates and the Villa of Mosaics. A fascinating arch reveals the town rose to ‘most splendid Julia colony’ status during Augustus’ rule. Later in history, Spello developed as a religious and artistic centre, and works by Renaissance masters such as Pintoricchio and Perugino adorn the main churches. The Pinacoteca Civica art gallery showcases more of the artistic heritage. Once a year, rich floral compositions fill Spello’s streets and piazzas for a weekend (Infiorata Festival, late Spring or early summer).
Bevagna
A river port made Bevagna a crucial trade hub in Roman times. Authors such as Pliny the Elder mention it in their chronicles, and evidence of that thriving era includes a temple, a theatre, and a thermal house adorned with a maritime-themed mosaic. The town’s Medieval layer lies soberly on the surface, encircled by old city walls. Piazza Silvestri is the highlight of a walking tour, with charming Romanic-style churches sitting next to a 13th-century palace (Palazzo dei Consoli, now home to an exquisite small theatre). The old trades and traditions are carefully preserved, as shown by the famous Mercato delle Gaite Festival every year in June. The plains around Bevagna form part of the Sagrantino wine route.