France

Paris: Where to Eat and Drink in the Latin Quarter 

by Rachel Naismith  |  Published August 9, 2024

Paris’s Latin Quarter offers a diverse dining scene, set against a backdrop of narrow cobblestoned streets and lively crowds.

Paris’s Latin Quarter (photo courtesy of Brian Jeffery Beggerly / Flickr CC BY 2.0)

The Latin Quarter rightfully claims prime position on the itinerary of many visitors. It’s one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, marked by narrow cobblestoned streets, always bustling with crowds that generate a lively atmosphere. Positioned between the upscale Saint-Germain-des-Prés area and the picturesque Île de la Cité, the area has much to offer: green spaces, historic landmarks, fashionable boutiques, and renowned academic institutions along with their significant libraries. It draws a diverse crowd of tourists, locals and students, and is home to a high density of eateries. Navigating the dining landscape in this district can be somewhat tricky, especially along the tourist-heavy thoroughfares where the quality might be lacking, and prices inflated. Here is a carefully chosen selection of dining spots that cater to a range of tastes and budgets.

Tram Café 

Tram Café (photo courtesy of Rachel Naismith)

Tram Café is a bright and charming cafe that dishes up tasty brunch and lunch options. The concise menu features around 10 dishes, catering equally to vegetarians, meat enthusiasts, and seafood fans, with high-quality, seasonal ingredients such as focaccia with roasted grapes and mozzarella, croque monsieur, couscous salads, exceptional coffee, and fresh juices. Seasonings are spot-on, with lovely touches like lemongrass in the couscous broth and toasted seeds atop salads. There’s a generous selection of homemade baked goods and simple desserts such as affogato with caramelized hazelnuts, and brioche French toast accompanied by fruit compote. Additionally, a small collection of books at the back creates a stylish nook for spending a few leisurely hours.

La Rôtisserie D’Argent 

This bistro, a sibling to the esteemed fine dining restaurant, La Tour d’Argent, often appears in listicles, thanks in large part to its prime location by the Seine. What really sets it apart from other spots with views of the river is the excellent quality of its food. True to its name, roast chicken is the star here: juicy, plump, slow-cooked, and basted in roasted garlic oil. While the prices aren’t too far off those of its sophisticated sister, this spot is a worthwhile treat for those seeking top-notch French cuisine. The menu presents other classics too, such as steak served with hot skinny fries, white buttered asparagus, and desserts that blend comfort with artistry, including glossy fruit tarts and crème brûlée designed for two. The interior embraces French kitsch with red and white chequered tablecloths and, as evening arrives, dim lighting brings a softer, romantic atmosphere to the space.

Maison Cluny

Outdoor seating at Maison Cluny (photo courtesy of Maison Cluny / @maisoncluny)

In the heart of the Latin Quarter, just beneath the gothic turrets of the Cluny Museum, Maison Cluny is a relaxed bistro serving French and Mediterranean dishes. Its wide terrace is perfect for people-watching, from Sorbonne university students to excited tourists, especially in good weather. The menu features a variety of fresh fish dishes including grilled sardines with herby chermoula and cod brightened with citrus fruit and wild garlic, along with vegetarian options such as homemade falafels and a unique asparagus dish paired with peanut-coffee praline. Those seeking heartier and more traditional fare might enjoy the roast rabbit with mustard and honey or tagliatelle with candied duck — comforting choices, especially on cooler days. A fail-safe for good value, home-cooked meals, with a touch of sophistication.

Solera Paris 

Solera is a cocktail bar loved for its imaginative creations. Highlights include ‘La Loulou,’ a vodka-based cocktail presented in an inverted Louboutin, and a gin mix cradled in a faux snail shell. Here, whimsy is king, and having fun is the order of the day. Patrons can also enjoy cheese and charcuterie boards, plus classic fried snacks like fries and onion rings to line the stomach. The decor is as colourful as the drinks, the bright blue walls providing a bold contrast to the traditional cobblestone of the neighbourhood.

Maison d’Isabelle 

Outside Maison d’Isabelle (photo courtesy of Rachel Naismith)

Maison d’Isabelle frequently appears on ‘best croissant in Paris’ lists and its storefront, emblazoned with a large sign tallying its awards, might seem a bit gauche. But don’t let that deter you. Both locals and informed tourists cherish this boulangerie for its exceptional viennoiseries, particularly the croissants. As you exit the Maubert-Mutualité metro station, the open doorway of the shop lets the scent of buttery pastries waft over you—a welcome shift from the stuffy metro air. The croissants are exactly as you’d want, glistening with butter, flaky, and ever-so-lightly salty. It’s takeaway only, but that’s hardly an issue because you’ll finish it within two minutes straight.

Les Papilles

For an authentically French dining experience in the Latin Quarter that eschews the usual tourist trappings, Les Papilles is an excellent choice. It offers a straightforward set menu, typically consisting of three or four courses: a soup to begin, a braised meat main course, seasonal cheese, and a simple dessert. The menu changes with the seasons—featuring dishes such as apricot panna cotta and chilled gazpacho during summer—yet the price stays consistent at around 40 euros. While the menu might appear basic, the cooking is anything but — characterised by big flavours and rich sauces that reflect the restaurant’s opulent interior, with its bottle-lined walls, fun yellow and baby blue tiles, and a welcoming, English-speaking staff.

Salon de Thé at Le Grande Mosquée 

Le Grande Mosquée de Paris (photo courtesy of muratc3 / Flickr CC BY-SA 2.0)

Adjacent to the leafy Jardin des Plantes is the Moorish Grand Mosque of Paris, a landmark since its inauguration in 1926. A visit to the mosque is a highlight of the Latin Quarter—with an entry fee of just a few euros, you can admire its attractive interior, which is filled with beautiful tiles, a peaceful garden courtyard, and water features. A stop in at the mosque’s tearoom is a must. In the warmer months, you can enjoy fresh mint tea accompanied by delicious, sticky Middle Eastern pastries like baklava, makroud, and samsa on its charming patio, surrounded by lush greenery. Should the weather turn, the indoor lounge offers a cosy retreat with comfortable armchairs and the lively chatter of guests enjoying their sweet treats.

Caluche 

Caluche is a laid-back wine bar that combines traditional French cuisine with contemporary presentation, all centred around seasonal produce. You’ll find classics like terrine, chou farci, and egg mayonnaise, as well as a selection of sensational seafood, such as bonito tartare, and fresh sardines in wild garlic oil. Starting off with a plate of oysters is always a good idea here. The meat-free salads and roasted seasonal veggies are genuinely satisfying and well-dressed, and the wine selection (mainly natural) changes regularly, with servers ready to offer recommendations. At lunch, there’s an attractively priced set menu for three courses (about 30 euros at the time of writing). The wine bar has a warm neighbourhood feel, featuring classic wooden tables and chairs, and is frequented by a steady local clientele. For dessert, classics such as île flottante and mousse au chocolat provide a straightforward, but satisfying, end to the meal.

Otto

Wine and small plate at OTTO (photo courtesy of OTTO / @ottomouffetard)

For wine aficionados, Otto is the place to be. A Japanese izakaya-style bar, steered by Eric Tronchon (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France laureate, which marks him as a master of his culinary craft), it boasts an extensive selection of French wines, with a focus on biodynamic and sulphite-free options. The food is first-rate, though it’s all about small, snack-like dishes designed to complement your drink—think hot, savoury beignets, chickpea panisse with basil mayo, and gravlax with cubed beetroot. Inside, the vibe is sultry, with tall bar stools and moody lighting. Otto doesn’t accept reservations, but it’s an ideal spot for a drink before or after dinner.