From vibrant markets and stunning architecture to unique cultural experiences and flavourful cuisine, the French city of Toulouse offers something unforgettable for every traveller
Sunset over Pont Neuf (Photo: Audrey Herrin)
Among France’s big name tourist destinations, Toulouse is often overlooked. This is a shame, because ‘La Ville Rose’ is a beautiful city with a unique atmosphere and fascinating history. A thriving university city, it has a more laidback vibe than its more famous counterparts such as Paris and Marseille, and you won’t encounter anything like the queues and tourist hordes of those locations, leaving plenty of breathing space to enjoy the best of the local culture and cuisine. Toulouse offers plenty of attractions to visit and activities worth doing – here are twelve of the most unique.
Visit the Place du Capitole
What better place to begin your day in Toulouse than in the Place du Capitole, the bustling heart of the city? First, grab an outdoor seat at the Grand Cafe Albert for a croissant and a coffee, or breakfast at Brasserie Les Illustres. Then relax and observe tourists and locals coming and going in this imposing, rusty-coloured plaza. The view of the plaza is crowned by the facade of the capitole building, which you can visit next. The capitole is an 18th century, neoclassical building, constructed with the signature red brick of Toulouse. Inside, there’s a lavish grand staircase and several rooms to explore with beautiful murals. Keep an eye out for the paintings of the god of love, and images representing love at different ages. The Henri Martin room offers an entirely different style of painting, with Neo-Impressionist images of Toulousian life. Be sure to return to the Place du Capitole at the end of your day, as it presents a different spectacle when illuminated at night.
1 Rue Ernest Roschach
Discover the birthplace of the Inquisition
While the basilica Saint-Sernin is the most visited religious structure in Toulouse, the lesser-known Convent des Jacobins has an even more fascinating history. One of the oldest buildings in Toulouse, it is the original church of the Dominican order, which convened to combat Catharism and other heretics in Toulouse. The Dominicans facilitated the Inquisition, which violently stamped out religious minorities and perceived opponents to the Catholic church across Europe. Among the ranks of Dominicans, rose Bernard Gui, the Grand Inquisitor of Toulouse, who created the manual for punishing heretics by torture. After the French Revolution, the church was converted by Napoleon into military barracks. The church also houses relics of the philosopher Saint Thomas Aquinas, which can be viewed beside the altar.
10 Pl. des Jacobins
Dive deep into Toulouse history on a guided tour
For anyone interested in learning about the history of Toulouse, Harry’s walking tour must not be missed. Harry is an extremely knowledgeable tour guide and an engaging storyteller. Over the course of the tour, you’ll view many of the notable cultural landmarks in Toulouse and gain insights about them that you would be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. His tour covers Medieaval Toulouse, the Inquisition, French revolution and the major industries of Toulouse. You’ll be entertained every second, and will feel like an expert on Toulousian history by the end. The walking tour lasts around three hours, so come prepared with water and good walking shoes. The tour is free, but guests are encouraged to tip generously.
Shop at a store where everything is violet
In Toulouse, you can visit a truly one-of-a-kind shop. Enclosed inside a boat moored in the Canal du Midi, La Maison de la Violette exclusively sells products made with the violet flower. It’s the only shop where you can find violet-infused mustard, jam, liqueur and all manner of chocolates and cosmetic products. The ‘Toulouse violet,’ which is used in all their products, is a variety of violet cultivated in Toulouse that has a long history in local culture. To learn more about the cultural significance of this fragrant, purple flower, simply book a tour at La Maison de la Violette on the shop website. Tours include opportunities to taste some of their gourmet products. Or if you’re in a hurry, just pop by their pop-up shop in the city centre to pick up some unique Toulousian violet chocolates.
Sur le Canal du Midi face, 3 Bd Bonrepos
Learn about local produce at the Victor Hugo Market
If all your exploring has left you peckish, then the Victor Hugo Market should be your next stop. This open air market doesn’t look like much from the outside, as it’s located inside an uninspiring modern building, but it has mouthwatering displays of fresh produce for low prices. This market is where locals shop for produce, but it’s worth a trip even if you choose not to buy anything. The abundance of fresh and high-quality seafood, meats, cheeses, produce and bakery products is a colourful spectacle in itself. There are restaurants on the second floor of the market, which serve food prepared with produce from the market below.
Pl. Victor Hugo
Discover a dazzling cathedral
It’s easy to get cathedral fatigue in Europe and you might be hesitant to add another one to your itinerary, but the Notre-Dame de la Daurade has a stunning atmosphere and several features that make it standout in a city full of religious landmarks. The original building on this site was a temple to the pagan god Apollo, until it was converted to a Christian church in the 5th century. The building was rebuilt in the 18th century and is famous for housing the unique ‘Black Madonna’ icon, a black statuette of the Virgin Mary. The original was stolen in the 15th century, and the second iteration was burned. The current icon is a copy built in 1807. It is interesting enough to wonder at the mysterious history of this sought-after ‘guardian of Toulouse,’ but the interior of the church is also a marvel in itself. The colours of the walls are shades of sea-green and gold, and the ceiling is decorated with little gold stars. Since it is not a well-known tourist destination, the atmosphere is usually serene.
1 Pl. de la Daurade
Notre Dame de la Daurade (Photo: Audrey Herrin)
Have a drink on the roof of a shopping mall
In France, ‘l’apero’ is a time to enjoy aperitifs, wine and light snacks before dinner. To catch the sunset or some afternoon sunlight, head to the shopping mall Galeries Lafayette and take the elevator to the top. On the roof of the building, you will find a restaurant called Ma Biche sur Le Toit, which has an outdoor rooftop bar that offers a panoramic view of the city. While the food is on the expensive side, you can also enjoy a simple coffee or a glass of wine while soaking up the sunlight and the array of red rooftops below. The bar offers seating right at the edge of the roof, so you can easily peer down on Toulouse’s main attractions in comfort.
Des Galeries Lafayette, 4-8 Rue du Lieutenant Colonel Pélissier 6e étage
Photo: Audrey Herrin
Taste a traditional cassoulet
For those who don’t know, cassoulet is a rich, mouth-wateringly savoury stew made with white beans and a variety of meats. It’s a staple in French cuisine and an unmissable experience for carnivorous travellers. Toulousian cassoulet is the city’s best-known dish, having been made in the city for over 700 years. Almost every restaurant that serves local cuisine is bound to offer a cassoulet, leaving no shortage of places to try it. According to Toulouse Gourmet Tours, some of the best cassoulet can be found at Le Colombier and Restaurant Emile. Start with a couple traditional starters and pair the cassoulet with a dry red wine such as Pinot Noir. Cassoulet is very rich and filling, so come prepared with a big appetite -and the very real possibility that you might need to take a nap afterward.
Learn about Nazi-occupied Toulouse
Head to the junction of Rue Alfred Demeril and Allée Frédéric Mistral at the Jardin des Plantes, and keep a look out for the red, white, and blue French flags. There, you will find a unique work of modern art made of tall, metallic tubes. Nearby, there is a clandestine entrance to a concrete bunker. Inside, you can find your way through an underground crypt with projected images commemorating those who died resisting Nazi occupation in Toulouse. While this may seem like a drain on the emotions, the monument is titled “monument to the glory of the resistance,” and is meant to inspire viewers with the courage of those who resisted oppression. The monument is a unique work of modern art, which is both visually interesting and educational.
Allée Frédéric Mistral
Travel the world through cocktails
From the outside, the unassuming entrance to L’Agence speakeasy bar is disguised as a travel agency. Keep an eye out for the neon sign and the blue wallpaper with a map design. Once you’re inside, push the shelf aside, and you’ll uncover a cosy, hidden cocktail bar. The decor is retro, Jazz Age themed; and the travel concept continues with quirky passport-shaped menus. Each of the cocktails on offer is named after a different travel destination, from Cuba to Cambodia, allowing you to select a drink based on the location that beckons you.
26 Rue du Languedoc
Discover ancient artifacts at a museum
A fascinating little museum located on the site of an ancient Christian necropolis, the Musée Saint-Raymond exhibits archaeological discoveries uncovered in Toulouse from the ancient world. The basement of the museum allows visitors to view part of the necropolis, with sarcophagi on display, along with guides to decoding the tomb encryptions. On the first floor, you’ll find a collection of ancient busts discovered among the ruins of a Roman villa. There are also mythological sculptures, including marble reliefs depicting the labors of Hercules. The second floor displays artefacts from peoples who have occupied the Toulouse area throughout history, including the Gauls and the Visigoths. A visit here will leave you with a rich visual appreciation of the history of ancient civilisations in Toulouse.
1 ter Pl. Saint-Sernin
Embark on a day excursion
As fascinating as Toulouse is, there’s only so much to see in one city. If you have about a week to spend here, it makes sense to visit one of the many enticing day-trip locations nearby. The most popular is the medieval castle at Caracassone, but seasoned travellers might be interested in an experience that’s a little more…unusual. A train journey of under two hours carries you through scenic fields and hills to Lourdes, a striking little town in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Lourdes is a famous religious pilgrimage, thanks to a grotto that is believed to carry healing powers. You’ll encounter many religious pilgrims in Lourdes, but the beautiful town is equally worthy of interest for non-spiritual travellers. Start your day in Lourdes by journeying through the town to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary. Beneath the basilica is the legendary grotto. In the afternoon, be sure to visit the Château Fort Musée Pyrénéen, a historical museum inside a medieval castle. Lourdes also has a lot of gorgeous green scenery to offer nature lovers, and there are multiple hiking trails
from the town centre.
View of Lourdes (Photo: Audrey Herrin)