Set on a large peninsula within the Adriatic Sea, the picturesque Croatian seaside town of Vrsar is a major draw with tourists thanks to its charming harbor, historic old town and cluster of pristine nearby islands.
A view across the water towards the Old Town of Vrsar (Photo: Paul Joseph)
Once a bustling fishing village, visitors can get a flavour of the town’s industrial heritage by heading to Vrsar Harbor. Here, where fishing trawlers once returned dawn filled with their ocean wares, now private pleasure vessels and tour boats dominate the waters. Looming large over the harbor on its eastern side is Vrsar Old Town, perched atop a hill and dotted with colourful townhouses and tucked away squares. Also in the town’s historic centre, you’ll find the parish church of Sveti Martin, with its blue and yellow-pastel-coloured interior and 131-foot bell tower that affords picture-postcard views from the top.
Boats moored in Vrsar Harbor (Photo: Bo&Ko via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0)
Vrsar’s distinct character and charm was actually first noted by Italian adventurer, writer and master of seduction Giacomo Casanova, who “got lost” here in the middle of the 18th century and promptly fell in love with the town. It is a commendation that wasn’t missed by the local tourist board, who in 1961, when the quote was unearthed, took the opportunity to create an annual festival called Casanovafest. Each June the historical connections between the famous lover and the town are celebrated through literature evenings, theatrical performances, exhibitions, lectures, movie projections and music shows, most taking place at the nearby Montraker Quarry (see below).
A charming street in the Old Town (Photo: aiva. via Flickr / CC BY 2.0)
It would be a crying shame to come to this stretch of Croatian shoreline without dipping at least a toe into the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic. Because, while the views above sea level are gorgeous enough, there’s nothing that quite compares with what’s on offer under the surface. Snorkelling is a hugely popular activity in Vrsar, but for an even more immersive experience you can try your hand at scuba diving. Founded back in 1996, Starfish Diving Center are a highly regarded local company who offer a wide variety of scuba courses and taster sessions for everyone from beginners to seasoned divers. Situated at the Autocamp Porto Sole directly by the sea, and a 10-minute coastal walk from the centre of town, Starfish’s offices and equipment centre welcomes adventure-seekers keen to embark on an underwater odyssey that is sure to leave them with memories that last a lifetime.
A family of scuba divers outside Starfish Diving Center (Photo: Lydia Howland)
The course you chose will depend largely on your experience levels, with those new to diving (aged 8+) able to embark on 2-hour sessions that include a full tutorial session and then around 30 to 45 minutes of dive time. During the first half of the session, you’ll learn the basic breathing techniques on dry land before trying them out in waist-height water. Then, once you’ve got the hang of it, you’ll swim further out before delving around 5 metres down to the seabed to witness the mesmerising marine life swimming all around you. The center also offer dives to 7 ship wrecks sunken during the World Wars, as well as shore diving in the beautiful Lim Fjord. Beginner diving courses take from two to three days, and for certified divers specialty courses are offered which typically take one to two days, with the theory part of the course undertaken as distance-learning via a Smartphone App. All instructors are fully licensed and equipped to ensure the entire experience goes smoothly and safely for participants. Use of all equipment, including your wetsuit, is included in the price.
A submerged diver makes the ‘heart’ symbol with their hands (Photo: Starfish Diving Center)
Facing directly opposite Vrsar, the island of Sveti Juraj (St. George Island) looks tantalisingly close – almost close enough to swim to. And guess what? You can do exactly that, with many visitors clambering into the sea off the rocks and making the 5-minute journey across. And if you’re worried about your belongings, you can even invest in a dry bag so you can take your stuff with you. Those who make the epic voyage (we know that’s how you’ll describe it to your friends back home), then you’ll be rewarded with picture-postcard beaches and glorious views back across to Vrsar.
If you’d rather admire the many nearby islands off of Vrsar in a more leisurely fashion, then City Beach Orsera represents the ideal opportunity. Nestled beneath the old town near the harbor, this idyllic stretch of sandy shoreline draws sun-seekers in their droves with its captivating sea colours and inviting green sunbathing lawn sprinkled with shady trees. There’s also a children’s playground and plenty of close by food and drink options.
The waters off the coast of Vrsar are abundant with exotic marine life, including a large population of dolphins who routinely rise to the surface to the great entertainment of the many tourist boats that dot the sea day after day, night after night. There are a wide choice of dolphin-watching tours that offers the chance (but not, we should stress, the guarantee) of seeing these majestic sea creatures at close quarters while taking in the panoramic views of nearby islands and back over Vrsar Old Town. If you chose a late afternoon slot, before you’re returned to dry land, you’ll be treated to a mesmerising Istrian sunset, and a welcome drink is usually included in the tour price, too.
Tour guests spot dolphins off the coast of Vrsar at sunset (Photo: Istra Speed Boat / Courtesy GetYourGuide)
While much of life in Vrsar inevitably revolves around its gorgeous natural setting, there are also a handful of alternative attractions scattered in and around the town. Among them is the Montraker Quarry, a disused quarry located close to the town centre. Visitors can explore the site independently and discover old limestone sculptures, as well as some superb viewpoints for admiring the Old Town and the deep blue sea. In the summer, regular events also take place here, including the Montraker Music Festival and the aforementioned Casanova Festival (see above), as well as sculpture workshops.
Another popular place of interest with a sculptural art theme is the Dušan Džamonja Sculpture Park. Spread across some ten hectares, just over two kilometres north of central Vrsar, the vast park is a veritable haven of peace and tranquility, and features a wide number of striking sculptures by the world-famous late Yugoslav artist Dušan Džamonja. As an added bonus, the venue is also free to enter.
Eye-catching exhibits at the Dusan Dzamonja Sculpture Park (Photo: Dusan Dzamonja Sculpture Park)
Aviation fans visiting Vrsar are in for a treat thanks to the presence of Aeropark Vrsar (Stancija Crljenka 1), an open-air museum set on a disused airfield containing a vast collection of discarded aeroplanes. Situated about a 10-minute drive inland from Vrsar harbour, some of the planes on display can even be climbed into and admired from the inside. Guided tours of the museum are also available, as well as a variety of thrilling experiences including sky diving and learning to become a pilot for the day,
Where to stay
One of Vrsar’s most upscale accommodation options, Maistra Select Petalon Resort (Pelaton) is a relaxed beachfront resort set on a scenic wooded peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean Sea, about a kilometre from the centre of Vrsar, and features an outdoor pool with a poolside bar, a restaurant, a fitness centre and sports courts. A more intimate experience is offered at Boutique Wrungel (36 Ulica Rade Končara), situated a few minutes walk from Vrsar harbour, while keen campers can pitch a tent, or hire a mobile home if they prefer a tad more comfort, at Maistra Camping Porto Sole (Petalon 1).
A sumptuous guest room with sea views at Maistra Select Petalon Resort (Photo: Maistra Select Petalon Resort / Courtesy Booking.com)
Eat & Drink
Vrsar offers the best in Croatian cuisine with an international flavour and cool beach vibes. One of the town’s best dining experiences can be found at Trošt (Obala Maršala Tita 1), widely considered one of the town’s best restaurants. Here guests can enjoy authentic local cuisine on a huge terrace with beautiful views over the harbour. For eating in the Old Town, Konoba Pjaca (rg Degrassi 5) is a gorgeous little family-run taverna featuring a menu of daily specials using fresh local produce. If it’s pre-dinner drinks or a nightcap you’re seeking, then Casanova Beach Bar (Montraker bb) is the place to head. Located right on the beach front, the bar hums with activity throughout the day, but is at its most buzzing at night, with regular parties and concerts taking place here during the summer months.
Fish on the grill at Trošt (Photo: Trošt)